Welcome to the tenth annual Hunger Games!
Elizabeth Banks’ modern escort Effie and Lenny Kravitz’s stylist Cinna are nowhere to be discovered, however there are nonetheless memorable fashion moments in The Hunger Games prequel The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes, centered on a teenage Coriolanus Snow (Tom Blyth) earlier than his Panem reign of terror. Director Francis Lawrence reunites with Trish Summerville, who outfitted the most memorable style movie within the franchise Catching Fire, to carry a distinct Panem to life.
“This time around, our world is much more classic and more contained,” Summerville tells EW. “We’ve not reached that excessive, outlandish, very gluttonous world of the Capitol yet, so we did go about it in a much different way.”
Summerville channeled traditional Nineteen Forties and ‘50s Americana to capture the earlier years of Panem, combing through JCPenney and Sears catalogs of yesteryear and imbuing the neutral palettes seen across filming locations in Germany and Poland into the designs. Below, the costume designer breaks down some of the prequel’s most notable appears to be like.
Lucy Gray Baird’s colourful reaping costume
Murray Close/Lionsgate
Rachel Zegler’s Lucy Gray wears her mom’s rainbow tulle costume on reaping day. It’s lengthy earlier than the period of tribute uniforms, so she and fellow tributes are thrown into the sector in the identical garments they put on once they’re plucked from their properties — which means Summerville needed to assemble between 10 to 12 variations of the costume to account for put on and tear. She tapped into the songbird’s musical Covey background through the creation course of. “Lucy Gray is a performer. She’s much different than Katniss. She’s a bit of a vaudeville traveling musician [and] got a bit of a can-can girl flare to her.”
Though she’s no Katniss, Summerville did embrace nods to Jennifer Lawrence’s Girl on Fire, making a leather-based corset in the identical silhouette as Katniss’ darkish navy mockingjay costume in Catching Fire, seen beneath.
There’s additionally one other nod to Katniss and her sister Primrose (Willow Shields) within the type of the katniss and primrose flowers painted on the corset alongside the snakes.
Volumnia Gaul’s regal purple costume
Murray Close/Lionsgate
With Viola Davis’ gamemaker and geneticist, “I wanted her — and Tigris — to be the most fashion-forward people in this world,” Summerville says. “I did want to show some extremes, things that were over the top in various silhouettes and color, pattern, [and] texture.” As director Francis Lawrence beforehand instructed EW, “She’s a inventive person with a really sinister underpinning, so there’s lots of coloration in her wardrobe and in her hair and likewise in her creation.”
Note, too, that Volumnia’s palms and neck are sometimes lined. It all goes again to these mutations. “It was of the mindset that she’s created all these creatures in her lab,” Summerville notes of the conservative coverings. “There’s probably some scarification or burns or bite marks from her creatures, so we keep her covered so as to not alarm any of the students.”
Tigris’ muted pink go well with
Lionsgate; Murray Close/Lionsgate/Courtesy Everett Collection
For future Capitol stylist Tigris (Hunter Schafer), Summerville used predominantly pink tones to lean into the “lightness” of the up-and-coming designer, who she calls a “ray of hope and sunshine.” In Mockingjay Part 2, Tigris, who owns her personal boutique, “becomes much more extreme” fashionwise, Summerville notes. “[I wanted to] show how she [starts] off as this very soft, fashionable person.” There are even nods to Banks’ Effie, with Summerville paying homage to Hunger Games costume designer Judianna Makovsky by the use of Tigris’ go well with with a peplum waist and dramatic shoulders. “She started that world,” Summerville says of Makovsky.
Coriolanus and his classmates’ saturated college uniforms
Lionsgate
To create the uniforms of Coriolanus and his Academy classmates, Summerville took a extra “conservative and Communistic” strategy and settled on a blood-like pink to distinction the chilly, grey interiors of the varsity and Capitol. “When the students file into the Academy classrooms, it’s this veining of blood,” she says. “It’s like a blood flow. That for me was significant because this is the youth and they are the blood flow of the Capitol and how the future will be throughout Panem.”
There’s additionally a nod to future President Snow towards the top of the movie, throughout Coriolanus’ ultimate go to with Casca Highbottom (Peter Dinklage). Coriolanus’ pink ensemble pulls from the burgundy satin and velvet jacket Summerville designed for Sutherland in Catching Fire. Though he wears white within the e-book, Summerville didn’t need him to face out towards the ocean of pink. “I wanted to keep him in a similar color but completely change what he was wearing,” she says. “Because now he’s a civilian and he’s gone through a lot. He’s become a man and we were calling it his ‘new man look.’”
Everett Collection
The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes is in theaters now. You can purchase Entertainment Weekly’s The Ultimate Guide to The Hunger Games right here, or on newsstands.
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