Tucked away in the beautiful St James’s Place, the historical Stafford London is the type of hotel I picture is implied for those who wish to go to the capital while feeling they are in fact remaining at a peaceful, English nation manor.
Its restaurant, The Game Bird, is everything about showcasing the very best in British produce and supporting craftsmen makers. It opened in 2017, however chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen – of Michelin-starred sibling property Northcote in Lancashire – signed up with the Stafford group in 2021 to work along with executive chef Jozef Rogulski on a brand-new menu, and the outcomes of that work remain in.
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This “hidden gem” in the heart of London is “well worth discovering”, said restaurant guide Harden’s. And its “top-of-the-range” timeless British food is “going from strength to strength”. As well as The Game Bird, The Stafford likewise boasts The American Bar, personal dining-room and significant 380-year-old working wine rack.
The interiors
The objective with the decoration at The Game Bird, similar to the rest of The Stafford, appears to be to integrate the timeless and modern and satisfy someplace at a satisfyingly classy midpoint. In most methods, the style handles to strike that area extremely well.
Painted an abundant duck egg blue and covered in numerous, numerous mouldings, the room has an extravagant feel while evading the extravagant. It likewise handles to feel rather inviting and unintimidating for the white tableclothed restaurant of a first-class Mayfair hotel.
The walls show art that can at finest be referred to as diverse and at worst incongruous, however the dimly-lit dining-room keeps a cosy environment. While it is in fact rather a big space, we delighted in how the restaurant’s shape implied that a great deal of the tables are stashed in nooks and feel peaceful. If I were checking out London and spending my days roaming around the busiest parts of the city, I can picture eagerly anticipating a night cocooned at The Game Bird prior to directing to bed.
This isn’t among those “fancy-schmancy” locations where you “have to worry about whether you’re talking too loud or using the wrong fork”, said Sam Barker on Secret London. It’s definitely a “classy establishment”, however in the real sense of the word: “like an old-world gentleman.”
The menu
The heart of The Game Bird’s menu is the fruit and vegetables available. From hand-dived scallops and house-cured chalk stream trout gravlax, to chargrilled grass-fed steak and jersey royal dumplings, you won’t discover a menu product with easy components like “potatoes” noted. What you will discover, nevertheless, is fresh British produce that has actually been thoroughly curated. In case you’re still unsure what tone they’re attempting to strike, the truth that the meat and veg area of the à la carte menu is identified “Hoof, Feather and Field” must inform you whatever you require to understand.
The night began with the butteriest brioche, homemade with black onion seeds and thyme. For beginners, we chose the crispy North Sea cod in breadcrumbs, which was pleasantly fresh and flaky and served with a tartare sauce with generous portions of gherkin and caper. The scallops with cauliflower, buttermilk and sea herbs were likewise light and flavourful, provided in a shell precariously well balanced atop warm pebbles.
The restaurant’s signature meal – the Game Bird duck pie – is impressive. The pie is firmly loaded and abundant as can be, yet incomparably conquerable. The duck breast is lined with Prosciutto di Parma, mushrooms, a type of stuffing, and topped with a drizzle of gravy.
We likewise attempted the Dover sole meunière, which had a £58 cost to measure up to. It was, nevertheless, a magnificently ready and rather massive piece of feather-light fish, soaked in lemon and caper butter.
In regards to sides, we discovered the triple prepared chips a little oily, however the mix of green and white asparagus – difficult to discover in the UK – was a beautiful surprise.
For dessert, the crêpes suzette produced a joyful end to the night. The waiter wheeled out a portable hob, including the citrussy garnishes in front of our table prior to setting the mixture aflame. The apple pie soufflé was likewise outstanding and paired for us with a discreetly sweet dessert red wine served in wintry cooled glasses – a beautiful touch.
The red wine
The red wine list is absolutely nothing except gigantic – unsurprising when you understand The Stafford’s cellars hold more than 8,000 bottles. Built in the 17th century by Lord Francis Godolphin and utilized as an air raid shelter throughout the Second World War, the cellars are now where the sommeliers host red wine tasting and pairings. However, our meal was matched for us skillfully, so we were entrusted no doubts that the group would have the ability to supply trusted suggestions for anybody overwhelmed.
The decision
The Game Bird is a gem for those trying to find British custom and produce served at its most raised, yet available. The service is 2nd to none and the staff are inviting, well-informed, and mindful, while offering you space to in fact consume your meal. If you’re remaining at The Stafford or merely trying to find great dining in a peaceful, silky area in Mayfair, it’s an outstanding option.
Asya Likhtman was a visitor of The Game Bird. The Stafford London 16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NJ; thestaffordlondon.com
