Britain’s oldest, longest and most complete defensive walls encircle Chester: a perimeter of ramparts dating back 2,000 years. But Chester isn’t confined to history — Cheshire’s county town excels at finding ways to explore its past, and its historic core is now seeing the fruits of a £72m regeneration fund.
As well as a major revamp of the Northgate bus station, the headline development is Chester Market, which hosts 39 stalls in an oak-beamed food court, including established vendors, beloved local brands and successful pop-ups in new permanent homes. Indulge in dairy and vegan confections from Cheshire Farm Ice Cream; site-roasted coffee from Bean & Cole; French patisserie from Pastry Pédaleur; and street food from the likes of Big Lola’s Taqueria and Guroma — plus, designer pet treats, clothing and specialist kitchenware.
Meanwhile it’s all change along Chester Rows, the historic shopping arcade, with new restaurants and galleries taking over shops lost to lockdown. Don’t miss the Art House Cafe for excellent coffee, big-plated brunches, and home bakes — plus workshops on everything from lino-cutting to letterpress in its ‘makers space’, set in the medieval crypt.
But perhaps the biggest movement in Chester’s culinary scene is the arrival of executive chef Elliot Hill at Arkle, the high-end dining spot at Chester Grosvenor Hotel, which held a Michelin star for 30 years until the departure of Simon Radley in 2021. A finalist in last year’s National Chef of the Year competition, Hill now looks set to bring a starry accolade back to the Chester institution.
